Foilayage Techniques: 8 tips on tipping out hair
balayage / foilayage tip outs
Whether you are applying teasylights, babylights or hand painted balayage, tip outs are a must to complete the look.
Here are some quick tips for tipping out hair!
What is a tip out?
A tip out is when you color the mid-ends of the hair. This is normally done with bleach, but can also be done with Demi-permanent hair color.
Why tip out?
Tipping out the mid/ends of hair during a color service creates full, bright and cohesive hair. Tipping out is great way to add a melted contrast for darker hair, and helps achieve a beautiful, refreshed bright and balanced blonde when working with lighter hair. Tipping out hair allows the eye to follow the brightness, creating a visual effect making the hair appear longer.
tip #1: identify hair zones
With traditional weaving, you are only adding brightness to zone 1 (the roots) and 2 (the midshaft) of the head. Tip outs allow for maximum brightness in zone 3 (the ends).
tip #2: work in subsections
In order to achieve even saturation and maximum brightness, less hair is better than too much hair for a tip out. My person rule of thumb is for every 3 foils, take the hair in-between, backcomb and tip out - then repeat. Taking these smaller subsections will eliminate blotchy spots and uneven lift, and create the perfect blended look.
tip #3: apply at the correct time
It’s not only important to know where to apply a tip out, but also when to apply the tip outs during the service.
If your client has virgin hair level 7 or darker, or is looking for 3+ levels of lift, tip out the hair while you are working on each each subsection of the head. if you start in the back, make sure you tip out the ends in the back before moving to the front of the head. This will allow for an even lift. Processing time can be 20 minutes or more, allowing for a balanced lift.
If your client’s ends only need 1-2 levels of lift, apply the tip outs at the end of foilayage application. Depending on the amount of lift needed, the processing time should be anywhere from 5-20 minutes.
tip #4: refresh old blonde hair
If your client ‘s ends are previously blonde and need 1-2 levels of lift:
Tip out the ends after the entire foilayage application is complete. Because the hair is already blonde, it needs just 1-2 levels of ‘bump’ to remove brass, dullness caused by the over use of purple shampoo. Apply the tip outs at the end, so you do not over process or damage the old blonde hair.
tip #5: open air balayage tip outs vs. tipping out in a foil
I like to do an open air balayage tip outs for my clients needing 1-2 levels of lift. For less lift only surface paint, and for more lift saturate all the way thru the hair. Because the clay bleach moves slower without a foil, this technique is perfect for refreshing old blonde or taking warmer highlights to a cleaner, brighter color.
For my dark haired clients needing more than 3 levels of lift, I will backcomb, and then saturate the hair all the way and process in a foil. This will allow for maximum lift on the ends.
tip #6: wet balayage
Wet balayage is perfect for tipping out clients with already lightened hair. This is a great way to take a level 9 to a level 10, or bump out any dullness caused by too much purple shampoo. You will want to apply clay bleach to damp/wet hair if the clients hair is feeling dry. This can be done at the chair after foils are complete, and should only be performed on hair needing 1-2 levels of lift. Keep your spray bottle handy, and make sure to backcomb BEFORE you apply the water. Another way to tip out with wet balayage is at the shampoo basin. It is very important that when you are applying that you leave out darker, dimensional hair (or you will create unwanted warmth).
tip #7: backcombing
Also known as teasing, backcombing allows for a seamless, soft blend. When back combing the hair, create one fluid backcomb up the hair. The further down the backcomb is taken (towards the ends) the more diffusion you will see. When tipping out, marry the subsections by backcombing together.
tip #8: use the right products
For open air balayage I use Pulp Riot Clay lightener. it’s my favorite because the viscosity is about as smooth as it gets. No need to worry about swelling or clumps in the bleach. 10/10 recommend! I will add Brazilian Bond Builder to my bleach every time for added protection.
For foil work I recommend using Oligo Blacklight Extra Blonde or Cool Blonde. I have used a lot of different bleaches, and Oligo gives the best clean and bright lift. There is also bond builder inside the developer, win!
For more tips and tricks, follow me on Instagram, and keep an eye out for upcoming classes and trainings in advanced hair education!
xoxo - april
